The Rolex Explorer II, particularly the vintage 1655 model, holds a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts. Its rugged design, purposeful functionality, and rich history make it a highly sought-after collectible and a testament to Rolex's enduring legacy. This review will delve into the specifics of the 1655, comparing it to its modern counterparts and exploring its place within the broader Explorer II lineage, including references to models like the Rolex Explorer II 42mm Polar, Rolex Explorer 2 Polar 40mm, and others frequently searched for online, such as those found on Chrono24 and those available as pre-owned or vintage Rolex Explorer watches for sale.
The Rolex Explorer II 1655, produced from 1971 to 1984, boasts a 39mm case, a size considered remarkably wearable even by today's standards. While modern iterations have grown larger, the 1655's compact dimensions contribute to its classic aesthetic and make it surprisingly comfortable on the wrist. This understated elegance, coupled with its robust construction, is a hallmark of the vintage Explorer II. The case itself, typically stainless steel, shows the hallmark Rolex quality – meticulously crafted and built to withstand the rigors of exploration, a theme central to the watch's design philosophy.
However, the most distinguishing characteristic of the 1655 is undoubtedly its steel 24-hour bezel. This fixed bezel, unlike the rotating bezels found on many other Rolex sports watches, serves a crucial purpose: it allows the wearer to easily distinguish between AM and PM in low-light conditions, a vital feature for spelunking or other activities where daylight is scarce. This function, combined with the watch's high legibility and robust build, solidified its reputation as a tool watch par excellence. The fixed nature of the bezel also contributes to the watch's durability, eliminating potential points of failure associated with rotating bezels. This is a key differentiator from modern Explorer II models, and a feature many vintage enthusiasts appreciate.
The dial of the 1655 is another area of significant interest. Early examples often featured a matte black dial with luminous markers and hands, exhibiting a characteristic patina over time, further enhancing their vintage appeal. These markers and hands, originally using tritium, have evolved in appearance with age, resulting in a range of colors from creamy beige to warm brown, depending on the exposure to light and the passage of time. These subtle variations in patina contribute to the unique character of each individual 1655, making each one a truly unique piece. Later iterations might feature a slightly different dial, but the overall legibility and functionality remain consistent. The iconic orange hand, pointing to the 24-hour marker on the bezel, is a defining feature that instantly identifies the watch as an Explorer II. This hand, designed for quick timekeeping in low visibility, is as functional as it is aesthetically striking.
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